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Although the shell in my hand could have been one I
picked up on Surfside Beach, I was a long way from home.
I was standing on the beach in Ouidah in the country
of Benin, Africa. The sand was the same color. The dunes
were covered with similar grasses. The trees looked
like the ones at home. The ocean waves broke and rolled
ashore just as they did on my beloved South Carolina
coast.
I
was struck by the thought of how eerie this must have
seemed to the captured Africans some 200 to 300 years
ago. After months of darkness in the holds of slave
ships, their first glimpse of land on the Carolina coast
must have seemed strangely familiar. I wondered if they
experienced a wild and desperate hope that they had
returned to Africa instead of landing in South Carolina,
headed for a life in slavery.
On
Goree Island in Senegal, I visited the Maison des Esclaves,
the House of Slaves. Once a prison where captured Africans
were held before being shipped into slavery, it is now
a museum. Slave traders lived in luxury upstairs while
humans were held in deplorable conditions below. Men,
women, and children were separated and crowded into
small cells until they had enough people for a profitable
shipload. Many of the ships from Goree probably landed
at Sullivans Island, off the coast of Charleston.
Goree
Island today is quite beautiful with colorful houses
and lush vegetation. The islands people seem to
have made their peace with the horrific past. They sell
handmade jewelry, wooden carvings, drums and colorful
fabric to the tourists the House of Slaves draws to
the island. Children dive for coins in the clear water
as the ferry brings visitors on the 20-minute ride from
Dakar, Senegal.

Thousands
attended the national ceremony and parades in Ouidah,
Benin, as Africa asked forgiveness of Africans and
African-Americans for her role in the slave trade.
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I
attended days of ceremonies and national memorials as
Africa asked forgiveness of Africans and African-Americans
for her role in the slave trade. The Dahomey kingdom
acknowledged its responsibility for capturing and selling
other Africans into slavery. At the beginning, they
sold prisoners of war but because slavery was
such a source of revenue, the king later sent troops
into various areas for the sole purpose of capturing
people. Healthy, strong, smart people brought more money,
so they particularly wanted to capture the leaders
the strong and healthy young men and women of the community,
the kings and queens and their offspring. The toll of
losing so many of her greatest resources over a period
of 300 years is evident in Africa today.
The
Dahomey king invited our group to his palace. The whole
experience seemed surreal as the full moon rose over
the courtyard and we witnessed a full eclipse. There
was much ceremony as dancers and musicians and then
the kings many children and wives preceded him
into the courtyard where the American guests awaited
him. The kings beautiful daughter walked behind
him, holding an umbrella over him, even in the dark.
His number one wife (of more than a dozen) walked beside
him in traditional dress, carrying a cell phone on a
pillow. The king commanded us to join his dancers, and
we did so in our bare feet, honoring the kings
sacred ground. As the evening ended, the king presented
each of us with the gift of a hat, embroidered with
the symbols of his kingdom.
The
curator of the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves),
now a museum
on Goree Island off the coast of Senegal, holds
a set of shackles that were used on captured African
prisoners.
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We
visited Ganvie, a fishing village built in the water
because the god of an ancient enemy forbade killing
on water. Children stared at us from the windows and
small docks of their huts as we made our way through
the village in boats. Colorful houses, built in the
marshes and creeks, were covered by roofs of palm. We
passed the Floating Market where people shopped and
traded from their boats. Years of living and fishing
in the waters had depleted the food and grasses on which
the fish depended, and villagers now went into neighboring
towns and cut trees to feed the fish. I watched the
villagers, even young children, fishing from their small
boats, and I was struck by the fact that the boats looked
exactly like the one found in an old plantation rice
field in Georgetown, S.C. The cast nets, too, looked
exactly like the cast nets at home.
Senegal
is 95 percent Islamic, and Benin is 95 percent vodun
(or voodoo), the traditional religion of much of Africa.
The president of the National Community of Vodun, the
equivalent of the Pope in the Catholic church, played
a major role in national ceremonies I attended. He,
too, asked forgiveness of Africans and Americans for
the role the Vodun church had played in the slave trade.
And he asked the Americans to take home the message
that the Vodun religion was about God and love
not about evil or black magic, as many of us had heard.
I visited a Vodun church and heard and felt the
connections with the call-and-response services in African-American
churches and with the joyous spirituals.
The
village of Ganvie, in Benin, is built on water
because the god of an ancient enemy forbade killing
on water.
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Images
of Senegal, of Benin, of my first visit to the continent
of Africa, are engraved on my heart. I understand in
a new way, from the inside out, what Charles Joyner,
Burroughs Distinguished Professor of Southern History
and Culture at Coastal, calls shared traditions.
Southern culture was indeed born out of the convergence
of African and European peoples. I felt that I had discovered
my roots.
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